Day 51 - Tuesday October 19th.

Last night I stayed in a b & b in an old cottage. Thelma the lady was a real old fashioned sort, to make a drink I had to use her kitchen which she didn't mind at all. The house had a real lived in appearance with things everywhere. The dining room had lots of newly made pickle which she had made. The floor levels were all uneven and odd steps which I was worried I might miss going to the bathroom at night. She was really helpful and I had an earlyish breakfast at 7.30 and left the house at 8.10. I had a long walk along the road to Saunton as Thelma's house was More than 2 miles from the Coast Path where I left it yesterday. I took a different route to re-connect with the Coast Path today but it was nearly 3.5miles to get there. I re-joined the Coast Path at Saunton Bay Hotel at 9.10am, and I walked around the [un-named headland into Croyde Bay] and walked across the sandy beach. At the otherside I was joined by another walker called Oliver and we walked and chatted together until we parted at Putsborough Sands some time later. we were at Baggy Point at 10.30am and arrived at Putsborough Sands at 11.20am and stopped for a drink - I had a Bovril drink for a change as this was on offer. Oliver left me at this point and continued as he did not want to stop.

I resumed walkingat 11.30am and walked accross the extensive Woolacombe Sand which is about 2.5 miles long. Its about 25 years since I walked this bay and I enjoyed it very much. It is one of my favourite beaches and brings back many happy memories from my youth! I made good time and arrived in Woolacome itself at 12.15 and continued to Morte Point, then on around to Bull Point and its lighthouse - I set myself the target of getting there before eating lunch. I arrived there at 1.40pm and took my lunch break. I resumed walking at 1.55pm and the sign where I stopped for lunch said Lee 1.5miles and Morte Point 1.75miles. When I got to Lee there was a further sign indicating Ilfracombe to be only 3 miles. I was encouraged as my legs were feeling tired already! I arrived in Ilfracombe at 4.15pm and found a mosaic in a lawn and a plaque stating that this was to commeorate the achievements of Johnathan Edwards and was opened by his parents in 2002. [The interest here is that I am Jonathan's godfather and have known his parents for about 45 years.] At 4.30pm I checked into Ocean Backpackers hostel and have been able to chill out a bit!

Distance walked today, including the distance to get back on the Coast Path is 21 miles.
Tomorrow is slightly less. I have slightly less than 40 miles to get to Minehead. My right leg is playing me up so I may have to split Thursdays walk and stop overnight in Porlock and then complete the final 9 miles to Minehead on Friday morning as I had originally planned.

Day 50 Monday October 18th

Today I left the hostel at Westwood Ho! at 7.05 a.m. and I set off along the road and up the hill to Northam, where I cut through to the point where I left the coast path yesterday. I then started to walk in the direction of Bideford until I got to a sign indicating a high tide route and a low tide route. The tide being out I took the low tide route, but unfortunately I got to a point where I was stuck in the mud. Unable to retrace my steps, with great difficulty I managed to find a way round and eventually arrived at Bideford. At 8.20 I crossed the bridge from Bideford to East-the-Water. I then found the Tarka Trail which also doubles as the coast path for the rest of today's journey.

The Tarka Trail follows the trackbed of the old railway and is tarmaced along its entire course, which made for a relatively easy journey today. I was in Instow at 9.30 and Barnstable at 12.20, where I did some shopping and had my lunch. I left Barnstable at 12.50 and arrived in Braunton at 2.40. On the way there was some really good bird watching and I also had to pass the RAF Chivenor. By 3.20 I had booked in at the B & B. Distance walked today 20 miles.

Day 49 - Sunday October 17th.

Today was a rest day. I had a leisurely start. Tried to catch up on bloggs until the internet connection played up and I lost everything! I went to the local church of England which is next door. They were very friendly and I was welcomed by the minister. They have no vicar at present.

After the service at about 12.15 I set off down to the beach and walked along the beach avoiding the pebble ridge which is recommended - the pebbles are huge 12-18 inches apiece. Where the beach moves around into the estuary I moved onto the path and the grassed area walking around The Skern and into Appledore with its very quaint Irsha Street with each cottage having a name. I continued around the shipyards inland and then continued to the outskirts of Bideford cutting inland and back to Westward Ho! So tomorrow I shall retrace my steps and join the path where I left off and this will have reducded tomorrows walk to about 20 miles.

I'm now back at theYouth Hostel having a leisurely evening.

Distance ambled today 6 miles. This means I have only four more days and about 80 miles to do, having walked approximately 760 miles. So far I've only had one really wet day and three days with showers or limited rain. Forecast for Monday to Wednesday is dry but getting colder. Looks good to me - I can cope better with dry cold days than wet ones.

Day 48 - Saturday October 16th.

After breakfast in my room I set off really early leaving the hotel at 7.05. The first three miles to Hartland Quay were very much up and down but I arrived at Hartland Point at 8.25 which waqs excellent time. Then as the path turned to the east it followed many field edges with only glimpses of the cliffs below. This was easier walking than for some time. There were a couple of dips down and up for small valleys. I waqs at Windbury Hill Fort at 10.35 and the long down and up tyo Mill Mouth. By 12.05 I had passed Clovelly - the path runs above the village and I had missed until I saw some benches and a view of the little harbour far below!

Before Clovelly the path entered mature beech woodland and this continued for miles past Bucks Cross and Bucks Mills until Peppercombe. I arrive4d here at 3.25. Prior to this I met two women who asked me how long it took to get to Clovelly, so I said 2 hours - and they told me that they had been 2.5 hours from Westard Ho!. Later we met up again in the Youth bHstel and they commented that my timing had been exactly right.

From Pepppercombe the path was again very much up and down although the cliffs were lower. I passed Green Cliff at 4.55 and arrived in Westward Ho! at 5.45. I went to a cafe and asked Hill"! and turn right and it was to be found on the right hand side of the road. It was so steep I can understand the local name!

Distance walked 22 miles

Dat 47 - Friday October 15th

After being given hospitality by John & Mary Smyth, Mary did all my washing which will mean I have enough for the rest of the walk. John took me back into Bude from Stratton and dropped me off at thye access point to the path out of Bude. This was a shortish walk as it was supposed to be the most difficult section. I started at 7.50 at Crookletts Beach, 8.40 at Sandy Bay, 9.10 at Duckpool and at 9.45 I was passing ther radio/ radar monitoring station above Lower Sharpness point. 10.20 at Hippa Rock, 11.00 Vicarage Cliff, and at 11.30 at Henna Cliff where I caught my first view of Lundy Island. At 12.30 I was at Marsland Cliff and at 12.55 I crossed a bridge over Marsland Water from Cornwall [Kernow] to Devon - I felt exhilarated! I stopped for lunch in Ronald Duncan's hut for lunch and resumed walking and by 1.40 was at Welcombe Mouth and Sandhole at 2.45, which is the turning for the Youth Hostel at Elmscott. Back at Marslland Water I met two men running from Hartland Quay to bude. They encouraged me to continue to Hartland Quay as I would have some hours before I could check in at Elmscott. So I rang the hotel and booked a room. At 3.45 I was at Speakes Mill Mouth with its fabulous water falll dropping 100 feet down a sheer slate rock face and then running 25 yards before falling still further to reach the beach. I arrived at Hartland Quay Hotel at 4.10.

At the hotel I asked about breakfast. They served it from 8.15 but offeered me a tray in my room which they brought up in the eveing. I was able to have an excellent breakfast as well make some sandwiches for the day.

Distance walked was 15 miles. This section was not as difficult as had been made out, or I must be fitter than I realised!

Day 47 - Friday October 15th

Having been given very good hospitality in Bude from John & Mary Smyth a retired Elim minister - Mary did all my washing which means in that respect I'm set up until the end of the walk. John took me back from Stratton to Bude and dropped me off at the Coast Path at 7.50. An early start was desirable as the guide bok stated that this was the most demanding section of the entire South West Coast Path. So I set off taking the view of taking it steady and not rushiing up inclines. I was at Sandy Bay at 8.40, Duckpool by 9.10 and was passing the radar/ satelite station above Lowwer Sharpnose Point. After this some of the ups and downs began to come with short stretches of reasonably level walking at the top of the plateau. 10.20 at Hippa Rock, 11.00 Vicarage Cliff [the local church was visible inland but no viacarage!], 11.30 Henna Cliff and for the first time I had a really good view of Lundy Island to the north, 1`2.30 Marsland Cl;iff and at 12.55 I crossed the bridge over the strewam called Marsland Water which has signs indicating that I had passed from Cornwall [Kernow] into Devon. Jubilation as this marked another milestone and home seemed so much nearer and I had survived the North Coast of cornwall which was not as bad as many had said. Maybe I'm just that much fitter. At 1.10 I stopped for lunch at Ronald Dun cans hut, which was open to the public so I said comfortably inside for half an hour.



After lunch I resumed walking and at 1.40 arrived at Welcome Mouth where I met two men running from Hartland Quay to Bude. We stopped and chatted and they said that I would be at Elmscott soon after 2.00 and that to stop there until the Youth Hostel was open to book me in at 5.00 was a bit daft and uggested I went on to Hartland Quay which wou;ld also shorten the next days journey which was quite long. At 2.45 I was at Sandhole where it is necessary to turn inland for the Youth Hosterl. so I rand the hotel [the guys I met gave me the telephone number] and I booked a room. At 3.45 I arrived at Speakes Mill Mouth where ther is an amazing waterfall. The stream runs down the valley and then at the beach cascades down an almost sheer slate rock face into a rock gully and runs for 40 yards and then there is another smaller waterfall before the stream enters the sea. At 4.10 I arrived at Hartland Quay Hotel which was about three strenuous miles on from Elmscott.

Distance walked 15 miles

Day 46 - Thursday October 14th.

At about 6.30 I had my breakfast - pasta bolognese. Never had a breakfast like this before but it was good in the circumstances! I left the hostel at 7.20am and the Coast Path is right between the Youth Hostel and the Witchcraft Museum so it took no time at all to resume the walk. By 8.28am I had reached the top of Fire Beacon Point - some climb. By 9.30am I reached the top of the aptly named High Cliff which at 723 feet is one of the highest cliffs in the south of England. By 10.30 I reached Crackington Haven and took a break to write some cards and have a pot of tea. This first part of todays walk was more demanding than I had been led to believe. At 11.30am I set off again from Crackington and pressed on over some demanding ups and downs until I got to Dizzard Point. On my way down I stopped and chatted to a couple about my walk saying that I had started from Dover on August 30th. I then continued down and then up the other side which was a bit like the ups on the Branscome to Sidmouth section in Dorset. At the top it was 1.00pm and there was a bench so I sat down to eat lunch. I had already noticed that the couple had stopped to talk to others also coming in my direction. They arrived at the top of Dizzard Point as I was getting ready to move on and they asked if it was true that I had started in Dover on August 30th. So they asked about being able to follow it on the web so if you have logged on to "Dudley's Dawdle" - welcome!

At Dizzard Point there was sign indicating 132 miles to Minehead - the end is in sight. So by now this is down to about 125 miles.

Once past Dizzard Point the walk got a bit easier with stretches of hill top plateau but with more ups and downs from time to time. At Millook I had walk down the road into the hamlet and then another long uphill slope to the plateau level. Then there was quite a long stretch on the road as the cliff path was no longer usable due to landslip and then down into Widemouth [pronounced Widmouth so I am told]. Once across Widemouth Sand the remaining stretch was parallel to the road at the top of relatively low cliffs and was an easy walk eventually leading me into Bude by the west side of the canal, from where I was collected by John my host for tonight. I arrived in Bude at 4.40pm.

Distance travelled today 17 miles - but quite physical miles although not unduly demanding. The terrain makes progress slower.