Day 45 - Wednesday October 13th

The b & b in Padstow was good. Julian my landlord was very flexible and more than happy to do an early breakfast so I had it at 7.00am. This gave me plenty of time to be ready and walk to the ferry for the first one to Rock at 8.00am. I was not charged for the ferry as I was walking for charity and this is their policy.

I had an easy initial walk to Polzeath, a village I knew of but have never visited before. By 10.17am I reached Lundy Bay which was clearly marked but have been unable to find on the map! At 10.35am I passed Trevan Point which is marked on maps! At 10.55am I arrived at Port Quinn and a sign indicating Port Isaac in three miles. It was quite a long 3 miles with all the twists and turns and ups and downs and I eventually arrived in Port Isaac at 12.40 where I was able to stop and at last have a cream tea previous places having been closed or not offering same said cream tea in the past two days.

This morning I saw three pods of dolphin at the same time along the coast.

At 1.05pm I resumed walking and discovered some discrepancies in the signposted distances like 6 miles to Tintagel but it was obviously much further. I quickly reached Port Gaverne just around the corner from Port Isaac and continued relentlessly on to Tintagel along a hilly coastline with no obvious identifiable features or bays. The only thing was, that from a very long way off I could see Tintagel parish church which is set high on the cliff top and some distance from the main village. I eventually arrived in Tintagel at 5.45pm too late to start the last part of todays planned walk the further four miles to Boscastle as there was no time to do it before it got dark. Had the first ferry from Padstow been at 7.00am it would have been possible.

So I decided what to do. I called in at a hotel and the barman rang for a taxi for me and Dave arrived about 15 minutes later. We had a good chat and I explained what I was doing so although the charge was £8.00 he took £5.00 and told me to put the remaining £3.00 into the sponsorship fund. When I arrived in Tintagel I was too late to do any shopping. So as the Youth Hostel was self catering I had some issues to resolve like breakfast in the morning. Linda who was on duty was exceptionally helpful and told me there was a spare can of soup and that there was some bread in the freezer. I then went out and bought a meal at a local pub. While there I asked for a pasty to take away so this resolved my day time needs. When I got back to the Hostel there was a small school group with two members of staff. These were the only other occupants of the hostel. They must have heard my conversation with Linda as they offered me some of their left over pasta bolognese. I did not need this as I had just eaten but they did give me a bowlful for my breakfast and put it in the fridge. So I no longer needed the soup. Quite an eventful day.

Distance walked today - 22 miles

There is no absolute agreement on distances as distances using GPS technology are "flat" miles and do not take into account the ups and downs. All distances are therefore approximate. Also there are alternative route options indicated on the routing and different people differ as to how far it is to walk between A & B - National Trust distance signs vary from the signed distances put up by the County Councils in some places!

Day 44 Tuesday October 12th

Peter and I left the house in Cubert at 6.50 a.m. and he left me at the coast path in Porth (Newquay) at 7.07. By 9.07 I was clear of Mawgan Porth (Trenance). At 9.45 I was at Bedruthan Steps, where there was some spectacular scenery. At 11.15 I had passed Porthcothan, which was a dead hole, and I also saw the Minnows Islands off shore. At 12.10, having seen the cafe sign from afar, I arrived at Treyarnon, only to discover that the cafe was part of the YHA hostel and was closed. I passed Treyarnon Bay and walked across the sands of Constantine Bay and Booby's Bay. All three bays were very attractive and at 1 o'clock I arrived at Trevose Head, where I had lunch. Part of my lunch was a bottle of Rev. Berrimans Cola with Chilli, which was interesting. At 1.30 I continued my walk passing Harlyn Bay at 2.55, which necessitated walking across the beach as there is no access above the beach, and this can only be done when the tide is out, which thankfully it was. I passed Trevone at 3.10 and then Butter Hole at 4.05. After Butter Hole was Pepper Hole which is an enormous chasm down to sea level and completely unprotected. It was a bit scary! When I passed Stepper Point peninsular and arrived at Harbour Cove, there was a clear path across the sand dunes at the back of the cove. Then I arrived in Padstow at 5.15 in time to do some essential shopping. Then I arrived at the B & B at about 5.40. Distance walked today 25 miles.

Day 43 - Monday October 11th

Today Peter & I left the house in Cubert [the village where he and his wife live] at 6.45am and drove to Portreath and eventually we found the coast path out of the village. It was nice seeing Portreath again and the cottage where I had a family holiday when I was17 years old - haven't been back until Saturday! At 7.20am I started walking up the road as the first part of the path has been closed due to landslips on the cliff making the path unsafe. Not a long way up the road I was able to re-join the path which then went seaward of the old Nancekuke Common Airfield which is now a radio/ radar establishment and the land farmed to produce cauliflowers. The base extended a long way, probably over half of the way to Porthtowan which I arrived at about 8.40am and then continued to Chapel Porth at 9.20am, then on to St Agnes Head at 10.00am and St Agnes village at 10.45am. I passed Trevellas Combe at 11.08am and this was a pretty little place - not much there just a valley with small beach and cliffs. At 12.30 I arrived at Perranporth and stopped at The Watering Hole on the beach for coffee and some chips. I resumed walking at 12.55pm and decided to walk along the beach - one of the best beaches in Cornwall. It is over 2 miles long with firm golden sand and the beach when the tide is out is over 300 yards from the sea to the top of the beach and in places much more. At 2.45pm I arrived at Holywell Bay one of the most attractive bays and beaches I have seen in Cornwall - backed by rows of sand dunes which run at right angles to the beach and some rise to over 100 feet and it is quite difficult to follow the official path. On the north side of the bay I stopped for lunch and resumed walking at 3.05pm and arrived at Joke Cove [yes, that really is its name!]. But you have to decide of course if the laugh is on the other side! I continued walking around two more headlands and then walked across Crantock Beach and having spoken to Peter on the mobile he came to pick me up as there was no point trying to cross The Gannel, the ferry being only available in the summer and the tidal bridge only usable at low tide. So the plan is for Peter to drop me off on the other side of Newquay and The Gannel tomorrow morning at Porth Beach in Newquay, skipping the rather tedious and repetetive urban walk in Newquay.

This morning when I started I had a problem with tendonitis behind my right ankle. This went during the day. However, my right knee which had not been good over the weekend was fine this morning but far from fine when I ended the walk. Tomorrow I am planning another early start to get me well on my way to Padstow for tomorrow evening. Tomorrow like today looks like being fairly gently walks along clifftops and not too strenuous - unlike the end of Wednesdays walk and the start of Thursdays which are the last two reallydifficult bits according to reports but not as difficult as last Fridays walk between Pendeen Watch and Zennor.

There are now only 10 days to go - the end is in sight. I weighed myself on Saturday and I now weigh 12 stone 8 ozs, having lost another half stone since I started stage two of my Dawdle on September 17th.

Today I walked 21 miles

Day 42 - Sunday October 10th

Today is a rest day so no walking. Time to relax, go to church and to look after my feet! I forgot to mention yesterday that I saw a large grey seal colony at Fishing Cove just east of Navax Point after I had passed the Towans yesterday. I slept in late for me not waking until nearly 8.30am. My hosts, Peter and Teresa, took me to Newquay Christian Centre [Elim] which was at 10.00am. There were over 200 in the congregation for their Harvest service. I was encouraged by the serviced and was introduced to the congregation by Pastor Mike. This was followed by lunch at church. After this we returned to Cubert, the village south of Newquay where Peter and Teresa live. I helped Teresa clear the tables at the shop from last night's celebration of the sixth years she has been running the cafe in the village. Later back at the house I had a sleep and then set to and sorted out my feet and putting on ointments and potions to get ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow the first part of my walk is from Portreath to Perranporth, but the second half mainly describes a circle around the village of Cubert. I also checked the ferry at Padstow as I shall need this on Wednesday morning and this starts at 8.00am which is a good time and I actually got an answer when I telephoned which was good. This is the very last ferry crossing which will be a relief.

I plan to start early tomorrow and Peter and I are going to leave the house at 6.30am so I can start walking as soon as it gets light. It really doesn't matter if I end early but the evenings are drawing in and on long days an early start is advisable but it depends on the overnight accomodation as to what is possible.

I now have less than two weeks left of walking and by next weekend the conclusion will be in sight.

This weekend I have received nearly £140-00 in sponsorship here in Newquay which is encouraging.

Day 41 - Saturday October 9th.

Today did not start well. I was in the Backpackers Hostel in St Ives and when I went down to the kitchen at 6.15am it was locked with a notice saying that it would be opened at 8.00am. and my food was in the fridge for breakfast and lunch! Additionally I was unable to have a drink or fill my flask and bottle with water. If I waited until 8.00am I would be late so I decided in a not so happy frame of mind to abandon my food and sort things out on the way which was possible as I was passing through various places to start with. So at 7.00am or thereabouts I set off - the co-op around the corner did not open until 8.00am - no good so I set off and found myself on the main road out of town and stopped at a garage which did not have shop but they were very helpful and pointed me to the Tesco up the road which opened at 8.00am but this was not early enough so they told me there was a shop further on at Carbis Bay further down the road which opened at 7.00am When I got there I was able to buy sandwiches for breakfast and lunch. This was the first time I've had chicken Tikka sandwiches for breakfast!. I continued down this road to Lelant and then turned on to the B3301 to Hayle and was nearly out of the town when I saw a cafe with an illuminated sign saying "open". I went in upstairs [it was an odd arrangement really] and I asked the woman if she would do me a favour and as well as provide me with a coffee also fill my flask with coffee and top up my water bottle. She was more than willing and I was surprised to be charged only £2-00.

After this I arrived at the Towans and after a short walk at the back of the sand dunes, joined the coast path along the dunes and then decided to walk on the beach. The tide was going out and the sand looked firm and solid but in reality the first 2 miles it was quite soft but then got firmer until I passed Gwithian Towans when I returned to the dunes until I arrived at Godrevy Towans and took a break for a coffee and cake. I passed Harveys Towans, Mexico Towans, Riviera Towans, Phillack Towans, Upton Towans, Gwithian Towans and Godrevy Towans. At Godrevy Towans there was a coast path sign saying Portreath 6.5 miles which encouraged me as I thought I had more mileage to do than this. The route went slowly uphill and the path was good and progress would have been much quicker had it not been for a very strong headwind blowing from the south east offshore. At 2.00pm I stopped briefly at Bassetts Cove for some lunch and arrived at Portreath at 3.00pm. By this time I had already telephoned my host so that he would have enough time to come and pick me up. I had also decided that due to the wind it would not be sensible to press on further to the next village about 90 minutes further on. I am staying five miles from Newquay where I will be worshiping with the Newquay Elim church tomorrow.
Today I had a problem with the achilles tendon on my right ankle and this improved during the day. It was a bit painful and slowed me a bit but not too much. I could do without this. Otherwise, apart from the occational blister, legs and feet are doing well considering. This coming week I have three really challenging days - Monday to Wednesday as each day is over 20 miles each day.
Reflections on this week, include the amazing waves at the Lizard, seeing choughs at both the Lizard and near Lands End, only having had one really wet day so far, amazing varieties of mushrooms and toadstools, lots of red admirals, have met some really interesting people from different countries walking our coastline, exchanging information on hostels and routes, and feeling reallyexhausted on Friday night after what everyone tells me is the most difficult section of the coast path.

Distance walked 19 miles

Day 40 Friday 8th October

Today was a very strenuous day. I left the hostel at 8 a.m. and walked to Pendeen Watch, a distance of 6 miles and this took 2 hours. I then walked from Pendeen Watch to Zennor, a further 7 miles over very difficult terrain. It was muddy and rocky and up and down, and this took 4 and a half hours. The last part of the journey from Zennor to St. Ives was a bit easier and took 3 hours, a distance of 6 and a half miles. I walked a total distance of about 20 miles, but it took a long time because of the terrain. This evening I'm feeling absolutely shattered, this having been by far the most difficult walk so far.

Day 39 Thursday 7th October

This morning I left the hostel at 8.05 and took the path down to the coast, joined the coast path near Newlyn. I was down by the side of the sea at 8.20 and had a rather lengthy walk along the road to Mousehole. On the way I passed a memorial to the Penlee lifeboat men who died in 1981 at sea in a tragic accident. After Mousehole I continued until I got to Lamorna Cove. I arrived there at 10.24 and then I continued until I eventually got to Porthcurno at 1.25. I then walked up the steps to the Minnack Theatre and went past the theatre and stopped for lunch. After lunch I walked on to Porthgwarra and at this point there was a sign to Land's End 3 and three quarter miles. I continued on towards Land's End on a very strenuous up and down path and eventually arrived at Land's End at 4 p.m. However I was rewarded by seeing a pair of choughs along the way. After a stop at Land's End to celebrate Dover to Land's End I resumed at 4.25 to make my way to the Youth Hostel, which although it is called Land's End Youth Hostel is another 6 miles further on. I passed Sennen Cove and Whitesand Bay and at 6.30 I eventually arrived at the hostel very tired but very happy. Distance walked today 23 miles.